Alsek River
Lowell Lake and Mount Hubbard, Kennedy, Kluane NP
I had done a few river trips prior to this one. I got some basic whitewater experience and did the trips I really wanted to do. I also realized for me two weeks on the river is a recipe to come back out of shape, with a really sore back. However, I really appreciate the wilderness experience and mode of travel on the water up in northern Canada. As Canadians we are so often keen to see the world and travel abroad, but there are some true gems in northern Canada. Chatting with folks on past trips I soon learned that the Alsek was another legendary river. I also saw that rafting is a bit more accommodating for differing ages and not requiring a lot of experience. My mother-in-law had never slept in a tent before, and really wanted to take her someplace truly special for the first time so it would be a memorable experience. The local Whitehorse operator (Tatshenshini Expediting) did a great job, and their shorter trip was perfect for the 3 of us, as opposed to the longer full Alsek trips with the pricy heli portage. The food game on rafting trips is also next level compared to backpacking or evening canoeing.
It was a major success. Years of backpacking in the major national parks leads to lottery style reservations, hostel in the backcountry vibes at the tent sites, and really kills the get away from it all headspace that a backcountry trip should entail. This trip was a perfect antidote to this. We saw no one except a grizzly who wandered by camp. Beautiful meadows, amazing campfires on the side of the river. Glaciers calving overnight. Northern lights. Floating around icebergs on Lowell lake on our last day. What a beautiful place.
On the last day the older German bush plane pilot came preloaded with extra fuel, as if he had read our minds that we’d want to do a scenic flight on the way out after pickup. He told us best day of flying he’d had in years. We flew up the glacier, circumnavigated Logan and back over to Whitehorse. If you ever feel depressed about our disappearing glaciers, this place is probably the trip for you. Hopefully I’ll get back there on skis someday.
