Tweedsmuir
Ptarmigan Lake
Turner Lake Canoe Chain:
Pacific Coastal Airlines flew us into Bella Coola Airport (Anaheim lake flight was not going because of COVID). We picked up rental truck from Steve at Bella Coola Vehicle Rentals (about as friendly a rental car experience as you could possibly imagine) some supplies then headed up the Nimpo Lake for our float plane (Tweedsmuir air, really good people) into the park. We got dropped off in the alpine at ptarmigan lake, with overnight packs, the bulk of our gear was dropped by the pilot down at turner lake (by far the best way to do this trip in my opinion). We got part way up rosemary pass to get a view back down towards the lake, we didn’t make it all the way up to panorama ridge in an abundance of caution because our headlamps mistakenly were in the turner lake bag. It was a bit smogy with the forest fires this day but still a very nice alpine setting. The next day we hiked down to north Turner lake campground. The first stretch was through the alpine with some nice colors and views, there are a few side trips including a scramble which we skipped with the smog. Upon getting to the campsite, we setup our camp, then headed over to the viewpoint of Hunlen falls. Very spectacular waterfall, with the setting of the gorge and the sheer drop. The lack of crowds and railings adds to the atmosphere making it feel like a true wilderness experience.
The next day we picked up a canoe, and paddled to the south of Turner lake, then hiked along the junker lake trail (skipping the portages, make sure you ask Duncan if you can do this otherwise there may not be a canoe waiting for you). The beach view from Junker lake was impressive. The paddle through the lake has mountains on all sides. We then did the short trail to Widgeon lake, getting a site on the beach with views out towards Talchako and Ape mountains. The wind was quite strong in the afternoons but the next morning it was mirror flat. The next portage after widgeon is 500m with some elevation gain, and considering we were aiming to make it back to turner that day we opted to just relax rather than head over to Kidney. We probably spent too much time relaxing as by the time we hit the water again on Junker the winds had really picked up. There were some big swells so we were quite relieved by the time we hit the beach again on the other side. The hike back with all our gear felt a bit lighter, and we were happy to see relatively calm waters on Turner for the short paddle back to the mid campground. We opted to stay in the rustic cabin that night instead of setting up the tent, it has a wood stove, candles, mattresses and chairs, certainly more comfortable than the tent in the rain. The next morning was quite foggy with dense cloud, we waited anxiously as the pilot circled around unable to land, finally he found an opening and got below the clouds to land on the lake a take us out.
Tweedsmuir Park Lodge
We drove back down ‘the hill’ aka Heckman pass, one of the most epic drops you can experience in a car, you could smell a hint of smoke from the brakes by the bottom. Tweedsmuir park lodge is at the bottom in the far east of bella coola valley. The setting of the lodge is very impressive, with views in all directions and the atnarko river right out back. We were scheduled for a drift down the river right away, had to have a quick bite first as we were starving, then headed out for an abridged drift down the river looking for bears. Luckily I saw two, the first we got a really good look at as it was feasting on some salmon. The second got spooked by us a bit and ran off into the woods. The experience of slowly drifting down the river with fish jumping everywhere, eagles soaring overhead and granite walls shrouded in clouds was incredibly peaceful and memorable. We had a hot tub + sauna, followed by lovely dinner in the main lodge, with a better than expected wine selection and a very deep sleep in our comfortable cabin. The cabins are simple but well appointed with great views, comfortable bedding and modern bathrooms (although the shower head appears designed for someone about 5’6”). Breakfast was similarly tasty. The second day we were scheduled for a full day nature walk. I had some hesitations about this, and hinted towards the coordinator to ensure we would have more drifting during our short 3 night stay, and then went on with the scheduled tour. We were not fans. While our guide was lovely, as were the fellow guests, taking a younger BC couple who had hiked about 500km this summer on a slow walk along a forest service road is not what I had in mind for the price point. Not surprisingly we did not see any bears this day beyond one that scampered across the road in the morning. I am sure that there are some sightings on this excursion, and the other guests really seemed to be enjoying themselves but this was not for us, and doesn’t have the same odds of a sighting as the drift does. In the past, like many good Canadian tourists I probably would not have said anything, but when we saw another nature walk scheduled the following afternoon I spoke up. To the lodges credit they happily switched that to a drift, along with adding another one the following morning when we departed – kudos. It poured rain on us during our afternoon drift, and it was starting to feel like karma when nothing was spotted on the river, until we reached the final bend. A yearling bear was playfully fishing and came very close to our boat, literally jumped into the water at one point. Sadly, the lighting was terrible for the photos but it was quite the scene. The last day we saw one distant bear briefly. I also spotted a black bear from the resort viewing station.
Overall, we had a wonderful time at Tweedsmuir park lodge, and I’m glad we stayed there. I thought their locals discount made the pricing fair. I think I would have expected a bit more service wise if paying full price. I think the lodge should be doing more coordination/greeting upon arrival, coffee/tea/baked good delivery in the morning (even leaving it outside the door if COVID the concern) ; sundowner/afternoon snacks beyond the jar of chocolate + granola bars, they would likely require a bit more staff for this. Its hard to judge what it would have been like in more normal circumstances, but the regular price point is pretty up there in terms of lodges/safaris, especially when you factor in the fact that you drive up. For example, the accommodations and food is not up to par with Fogo Island Inn (probably closer to Sonora). On the other hand there are a lot of price insensitive tourists out there who want to see the grizzlies they could probably charge even more, perhaps my recommendation would be for locals to do the grizzly experience with another operator and enjoy the lodge off peak season. My only comparison is with Khutzeymateen last summer (along with the 4 other grizzlies we ran into hiking this summer, another reason active locals may be more price sensitive to these tours). The bear experience there was better, the price is lower, but both different enough to warrant visits (Tweedsmuir more fishing/salmon focused). I don’t think one can expect multiple bears in the frame type photos that you see from brooks falls/katmai, but perhaps that isn’t the full story on that destination, brooks falls apparently has some crowds, hopefully we will see for ourselves one day.
Chilcotins:
After grizzly watching we headed back up to Nimpo Lake. On the way we spent the afternoon doing a hike into the rainbow range. It’s a short day hike past some burnt forest into the alpine plateau to get a nice view of the variable hued mountain range in the park. The view from the plateau has multiple lakes in the forefront with these peaks behind it and the coast mountains in the distance behind you. A nice couple hours (but perhaps overstated on a more prominent hiking blog). It looks like a region that one could really enjoy with a few more days. Also seems like a tempting cross-country ski destination as well.
Rainbow Range
We stayed at Retreat Wilderness Inn in Nimpo lake, right beside the float plane operator. Well appointed room (although we should have chosen the one with the kitchenette when we realized there was no dining room). They have a lovely backyard with BBQ we took advantage of one night, a sauna, and great views of the sunset across the water. We rented a dingy, some rods and gave fishing a try trolling around the lake. We didn’t catch anything unsurprisingly given our complete lack of experience, but it was a fun way to spend a couple hours. The next day inspired by my host and some of the photobooks in his library we took a drive down to Tatla lake region and saw Bluff/horn lakes along with Tatlayoko. Beautiful, quiet countryside. The rare people you would see in dinners, general stores we all friendly in a classic country side manner, the place makes you feel back in time. We had a really nice meal on Anaheim lake at Eagle’s nest resort on our last night. The view out the dining room is to a couple canoes bobbing in the water and loons in the background.
One more drive down the hill, this time in somewhat more of a rush to catch our flight, which did manage to get in under the clouds and land to my surprise. One hour later and we’re back to the city psychologically recharged with lots of fond memories. Something about getting into a canoe really makes you feel in nature removed from the worries of the world. With alpine lake and hiking opportunities so close to us yet so quiet and peaceful, we will definitely be back to Tweedsmuir a few more times.
